6 steps to do troubleshooting of solar street light

Present-day trends favor solar-powered street lights. They not only save you money, but also enable you to play a part in protecting and preserving Mother Nature. But did you know there are simple strategies you may use to remedy it?

Finding out that your brand-new solar street lights are not functioning is really upsetting because it could put you in a lot of problems. The good news is that even if you lack technical expertise, you can still fix these problems. If your new solar street lights are not working, we will walk you through some tips and tactics that can be useful.

My solar street lights won't turn on; why?

Most of the time, defective batteries are the reason solar lights don't work. If the lights function properly with standard batteries, you can determine if the issue is with the solar lights' rechargeable batteries or the solar panel. We cannot, however, rule out the possibility that it is due to the solar controller failing.

1. Check the sensor's indicator's current condition.

The Greenlight is constantly on and functioning normally (battery voltage is more than 12V).

Green light with rapid blinking (charging once every 1 second) functioning OK and charging.

Green light that slowly blinks (1 time in 3 seconds indicates that the battery is fully charged) -charged and functioning normally.

Together, the traffic lights illuminate (battery voltage is less than 12V) – operation is normal.

The red light is always on, indicating that the battery is overdischarged and that the battery is running low.

When the load is unplugged and the light is turned off, a red light slowly flashes. This indicates that the LED is malfunctioning and that the light source cable is not properly attached.

Fast red flashing (2 times per second) - LED function is irregular, the positive and negative poles of the light source are reversed, indicating that the load is short-circuited and the light is not on.

There are none (the battery is dead or the cables are not in contact or the controller is broken).

2. Techniques for solar street light troubleshooting

A. While there is no nighttime lighting, there are indicators

1. There is a flash of green.

Check to see whether there is a lot of light nearby or if the moonlight is particularly bright. Remove either the solar street light or the strong light if there are two cases; if there is no strong light nearby, you must replace the controller.

2. The load is not on, yet the red light is flashing.

1) Verify the controller's operation. To check if the load is functioning normally, dial the side-facing normal function controller for the light body and connect. If it is normal, it indicates that the controller is the issue; if the load is still off, the LED light source is broken. Simply replace the controller.

2) Verify the LED light source's operation. Use an adjustable power supply to set the light source voltage to 36V, 24V, or 12V (depending on the voltage of your light source), then check to see if the LED light source is functioning normally. If not, replace the existing light source.

3. The battery is dead and the red light is constantly on.

1) Check to see whether there have been multiple days without sun, wait until the following day to charge the battery, and monitor the lamp's charging progress throughout the day. The charging process is typical if the green light flashes during the day. At night, the lamp will turn on automatically.

2) The solar panel cannot be charged or the battery depleted if you charge the battery during sunny days for a few days yet the light does not turn on at night.

a. Test the operation of the solar panel (please refer to B below)

b. Verify battery operation (please refer to B below)

c. Safety measures:

1) Write down the battery voltage figure for both the morning and the evening. The battery cannot be charged if the voltages in the morning and evening are the same.

2) You must open the junction box to test the charging voltage, set the solar panel under the sun, or directly test the voltage of the waterproof cable connector while gauging the voltage of the solar panel with a multimeter.

3) Examining the solar cell Voltage, current, and battery testing volts and amps.

B. No nighttime lights and no microwave sensor indicator light

1.Verify the connector's waterproofness. Check to see whether the waterproof plug has been shorted by water after unplugging the solar panel.

2. Check the solar panel's operation. Put the solar panel in the sun after unplugging the plug and opening the junction box. Measure the solar panel's voltage with a multimeter. The solar panel is normal if its voltage is greater than 16 or 32 volts.

3. Examine the battery's operation. Disconnect the battery cable and use a multimeter to check the battery voltage. The battery is in deep protection if it is 0 volts because to sustained power loss. Set the voltage on a DC power source to 14.6 or 29.2 (lithium iron phosphate), 12.6V, or 25.2V. (ternary lithium ), Battery activation and charging. Replace the battery if the voltage is less than 10V, 20V (for lithium iron phosphate), 8V, or 16V (for ternary lithium). Replace the controller if the battery voltage is more than 12.6 or 25.2 (for lithium iron phosphate) or 10.8 or 21.6 (for ternary lithium).

C. Limited nighttime lighting

1.Determine whether anything that could block sunlight is above or adjacent to the solar street light, such as trees, fences, electric cables, or light poles. Remove any blinds or solar street lights if necessary.

2. Verify that the solar panel's installation angle is parallel to the noontime sun. If not, change the solar panel's installation angle.

3. Inspect the solar panels to see if they are obscured by debris such as sand, leaves, or bird droppings. If so, tidy up after them.

3. Why is the battery protection voltage required for solar street lights?

A loss of power is indicated by the flashing red light. The battery cannot be charged and may be protected if the light has been charging for more than 4 to 7 days in good conditions.

The battery will be protected, it won't be charged, and the light won't turn on again once it has been overcharged or overdischarged. To remove the battery protection at this time, we must charge the battery for a few days. The solar lamp may then start operating once again.

Most solar street lights come pre-programmed with a protection voltage. The battery will be vented if the protective voltage is not set, which will damage the battery.

4. What causes the battery to deplete?

1. This solar street light discharges a considerable quantity each day, yet charges relatively little. The battery will lose power if it is in a discharged state for an extended period of time.

2. Check to see if the obstruction is blocking the solar panel. Is the daily exposure to the sun (4-6 hours) sufficient for solar panels? Is the solar panel facing the sun in the proper direction?

3. The battery may run out of juice if the led light's power output is too high.

5. How to activate a protected battery

1. Charge the battery directly using an external power source. Please set the voltage to 12.6V or 25.2V, or 14.6V or 29.2V (lithium iron phosphate) (ternary lithium ), Battery activation and charging. The battery is turned on when the voltage increases from 0V to 9V. The battery can be fully charged either by continuing to utilize the external power source or by connecting the solar panel and controller.

2. You can use a solar panel to directly charge the battery if you don't have an external power source (need to cut the solar panel and the battery and then connect them together). Take a 10-minute battery voltage reading. When the battery voltage reaches 9V, the battery is already operational. (We do not advise directly charging the battery with solar panels as this could result in battery damage.)